Products for mountaineers

All it takes is a non-technical, snowcapped crest under 2,000 m (6,561 feet). It’s a matter of a few hundred meters, but temperature fluctuations have changed the snow and below there’s a short rocky section. You need to bootpack it and you’d be better off with some crampons at your feet, even if the snow isn’t that hard. Or there’s a steep couloir to climb and you need to strap your skis to your pack—an ice axe would come in handy here, even if you’re not going to be driving it. Luckily, there’s more and more choice, but it’s not always easy to decide which product is most suited to your needs.  

Apart from some rare exceptions ski mountaineering-specific crampons feature ten points, while classic models have twelve points. The lightest models are made from aluminum, while the most robust are in steel; hybrid models use steel at the front and aluminum at the back. When it comes to hard ice or mixed routes, steel is the obvious choice as aluminum ricochets and dulls quickly on rock. It’s a different story if you’re on a snowy, not particularly technical route, or a short downhill section in similar conditions. Another thing to consider is that aluminum linking bars are subject to torsion, more so than steel, and this can also have an effect out on the crest or when traversing, making them more unstable. This can also be seen in minimalist models like the Petzl Leopard, which uses cords to attach the front to the back. The shape and position of the points is also important as they can make the difference when stopping, especially at the back. 

It’s one thing to fit, quite another to have the sole of your boot properly covered, with the front and rear rails of the crampon matching the respective areas of the boot, with little play in the front toe bail on rockered boots keeping the snow out and holding the heel firmly. The main problems involve too much room at the back (very occasionally too little room) for some light boots, with lots of lateral and vertical slop, or too much vertical play up front. Consider that if there are problems to begin with, they will only increase once the rubber sole of the boot starts to wear down. Then there are low-sitting ski/walk levers that can get in the way of some models (in some more technically difficult situations it can be useful to lock your boot to your ski together with the crampon), pronounced rear overhangs at the heel and crampon levers that aren’t always easy to lock. You also need to take into account the distance between the toe of the boot and the front points, something worth bearing in mind on mixed routes, where rocks can reduce the amount of foothold available. Under each tested boot description, you can find information on crampon compatibility. Our test team tried every boot with the ten most popular crampons for ski mountaineering. 

Your axe stays safely stowed in your pack when skiing, and to hand on the uphill, where necessary. Up to around a decade ago it was hard to find one under 52 cm (20 in.). In any case, stick between 45 (no shorter) and 55 – 60 cm in length. If the going gets steep, is it better to have it to hand on your shoulder strap, just in case you need to self-arrest? It’s still going to be hard to get hold of it quickly enough in a situation like that, it’s more for if you find a sheet of hidden ice. Adze or hammer? Adze, if you have a second then that should have a hammer to attach screws if necessary (and if you know how to do it). An adze, the bigger, the better, can be useful when clearing snow to transition. Using a leash tied to the head is contentious, less so a leash tied to the handle; even if you’re not going to lose it if you drop it, there are many who would get rid of any ties to the body altogether. 

Whichever type you decide to go for, the most important thing is the size. Remember to try it on at the store while wearing your ski gear, which is heavier and bulkier than jeans and a t-shirt. Because when the time comes to wear it on the mountain you don’t want to realize that the leg loops won’t fit over those brand-new, super-cool pants you just bought. Comfort and fit should come first, though comfort when walking compared to when rappelling means something very different. Opinions (including ours) are very subjective, and a lot depends on your build.