Skimo poles

Unlike alpine skiing, in ski touring the ascent is at least 50% of your day, and this can accentuate any errors you make when choosing poles, because, just as the average skier tends to choose poles that are longer than they actually need, it’s also tempting for tourers to seek maximum thrust on the uphill. But most ski tourers have a way to mitigate any mistake made when making their purchase by opting for adjustable poles. Here we discuss the two great truths regarding poles for outdoor enthusiasts. To illustrate the first point we’ll make a fun comparison: thinking that longer poles will help when skinning is like believing that a 7-meter pole will let you set the world record in the pole vault. Without a long digression into the biomechanics, just know that choosing a longer pole (or overextending a telescopic one) is tempting—but wrong: you’ll struggle more on up and ski worse on the down. 

Mechanical resistance 101: you could say (half-seriously) that carbon breaks but doesn’t bend, while aluminum bends but doesn’t break. In reality though, these days breakages are rare. Aluminum shafts, especially low-quality ones, tend to deform if weight is put on them during a fall, or they get stuck somewhere (holes, roots, between rocks). If they’re not too badly damaged, it just takes a little elbow grease to straighten them, even out on the mountain, but they won’t go back to how they were. Experienced skiers will be able to read the terrain better using a more reactive carbon pole, as well as gain more control and speed at their wrist, especially when using tips that are correspondingly lightweight. 

Cylindrical tips, either hollow or with teeth (the former is better as more durable and versatile on different types of terrain, only rarely does it fill with snow) are better with touring/freeride poles, or high-quality alpine ski poles. They have enough bite in every direction and with the average plant angle. While you can’t sharpen them at home, they last a lifetime, are very difficult to break and almost all manufacturers sell replacement tips. Diagonal tips are used for race poles, and are slanted for better grip, but only in the direction of travel, with little adherence horizontally but a lot vertically. When descending on foot on rocky terrain, poles with this type of tip should be held facing inwards, something which very few do in practice. It creates a risk of slippage, partly due to the basket slanting in the same direction and gouging the ground beneath. They are the only tips that are guaranteed to grip on any type of tarmac, even frozen (they are used for roller skiing), and, if they’re well looked after, on smooth rock. They’re easily sharpened at home from time to time, though you need the right grinder, water for constant cooling and to know what you’re doing. 

Soft plastic baskets are therefore better, ideally divided into 5-6 independent sections or petals. Even when skiing fast they sweep more evenly through/on the snow. Baskets that rotate and tilt provide extra grip when walking to tourers who maintain rhythmic movement of the arms with a swing parallel to the direction of travel and passing reasonably close to the body. But they aren’t always the best in unexpected situations, especially if staying afloat is hard and they can’t tilt, or when removing them from holes in hard snow. To reduce the number of times this happens and to guarantee a more consistent grip on the terrain, for less expert tourers we recommend a good amount of length in the bit of plastic between the basket and the tip. Race and speed poles use directional baskets, with only the rear coming into contact with the terrain. This eliminates the problems associated with round baskets, which can get stuck in the snow or caught on uneven terrain. It does, however, create a problem for less expert tourers: remembering to turn the pole on certain terrain to get purchase.

For a sporty, more competitive feel, and in accordance with race regulations, slim handles with a uniform, oval shape without finger notches are more suitable. They are similar to less specialized cross-country poles and leave the hand free during the push and release phase. In competitions there are often sections where double poling, skating, side-stepping and herringbone, and basic kick-and-glide technique is required. All techniques that, when well executed, require you to push down and then recover the handle with an open hand, known as the swing. Grip materials: cork, these days usually compressed with plastic or glue, is not old-fashioned, nor is it only for esthetes. Its light weight is not the determining factor it once was, these days its thermal properties are what make it so popular, as that tiny amount of friction created when it comes into contact with gloves or skin creates more warmth than other materials. Cork is an excellent natural insulator with high thermal inertia. Hard plastics are cold: smooth and inexpensive, but with very little thermal inertia. Foam, usually made from EVA, is one of the most commonly used materials these days as it is resistant to knocks and cuts as well as warm.

It doesn’t always click into place first time, click straps require attention, and maybe a deep breath, to get it to do so. The trusty loop strap just requires one deft movement, and you can be on your way. Also, the slightly padded ones with a sewn border are stiffer and remain open, making it easier to put your hand through and they don’t get folded or tangled when paired with a gloved hand. As for the effectiveness of the safety release mechanism, there are no available data; we tried tugging at them on the test bench, but they didn’t open, presumably they do during an avalanche, so they can’t do any harm. Lately, the thing to do seems to be not using straps at all. It’s what all the cool kids are doing and looks like you’ve just got back from Chamonix. The more you know...